PLAID, NOW AND THEN
There is something reassuring, even comforting, about the return of plaids each winter. Trends are guaranteed to come and go with other patterns (and everything else), but a plaid feels more permanently placed in one’s wardrobe; an old, reliable friend, ready for moments that call for keeping cozy and looking smart, or even rebellious. That’s particularly the case with holiday dressing, where the options are plentiful (sequins! velvets! silks! tinsel, even!) but perilous. Overdo it and one risks resembling a gaudy, life-size ornament.
Not so with plaid, which offers structure (quite literally, in its myriad patterns) and warmth (think of all the flannel, cashmere, or wool fabrics). That warmth is also symbolic, communicating a sartorial bonhomie with each line and check. Perhaps it’s the tartan’s historical significance of the Scottish clans that continues to transmit, subtly or overtly, a sense of kinship with each wear.
The feeling of belonging is also a through line in Ralph’s use of plaid over the years. What began as a menswear-inspired suit done in a Fraser Hunting tartan in 1971 (the designer’s very first for women) has journeyed through many iterations, from early ’80s shirt jackets in muted tones to bold buffalo checks in the ’90s, then on to a more feminine take on the tartan in the early ’00s. The Black Watch tartan has long been a Ralph staple.
A glance at the latest curation of Ralph Lauren Vintage pieces for the holidays reveals just how dependably timeless plaid pieces can be—and how modern they look when compared to Polo’s current plaid lineup. While a pleated wrap miniskirt from 1990 was done with a blanket stitching on the hemline and a fringed trim at the closure, the 2024 version uses a leather tab closure. Both are 100 percent wool and use a back pleating for the most flattering fit.
A crinkle plaid slip dress, meanwhile, carries the same insouciance as its 2003 predecessor, a tartan-inspired plaid strapless number. Both current-collection and vintage jackets nip the waist in all the right places (the former with waist darts on a structured, double-breasted blazer; the latter with a tasseled rope belt on a shawl collar).
Perhaps the most historical example is the plaid maxiskirt, which Ralph first did in the late ’70s as he was exploring ways to infuse Westernwear in his collections. A 1978 version was done in a pale pink with green and brown checks, on a shirred ruffled hem, while today’s plaid maxiskirt uses a drawstring waist. Both are made with 100 percent cotton, have an easy A-line, and prove that Ralph’s plaid truly lives on through the decades.
THE MINISKIRT
THE JACKET
THE DRESS
THE MAXI SKIRT
