A heritage technique gets a sturdy update with wool plaids, intarsia knits, and nods to cozy cabin life.
Patchwork has taken on many forms at Polo, from preppy and coastal madras to moody, Japanese-inspired indigo pieces. “To me they were an expression of our American heritage—clothes that were authentic and had a one-of-a-kind sensibility and character,” Ralph has recalled of the technique, which also references New England quilting traditions. This season, patchwork takes its form in plaids to deliver that unique duality of rusticity and warmth that has long defined a mountain way of life. This women’s patchwork coat found inspiration in a barn jacket that first appeared in the Fall 1990 Collection, using its relaxed silhouette and telltale corduroy collar as a framework to create a charming tapestry of hardy wool plaids in barn red, hunter green, cobalt blue, and tweedy neutrals. Each coat is pieced together by hand with an exaggerated zigzag stitch. A handful of men’s pieces, meanwhile—trousers, shirts, sweaters, socks, and scarves—echo a similar patchwork theme, this time in a mélange of vintage-inspired wool plaids paired with classic buffalo check, Fair Isle snowflakes, paisley bandannas, and even the Polo Bear on skis. The sum of all its parts? That cozy, mountain lodge feeling.
One of our personal favorites, the Western-inspired jacket, is reinvented, from rustic to refined.
It was at the St. Regis hotel in midtown Manhattan, of all places, where Ralph decided to debut his Fall 1978 Collection—a landmark ode to American Westernwear. Among the pieces on the runway was a women’s jacket in tan suede fringe, worn with a blue plaid flannel shirt, pantaloons, and a rodeo belt buckle. It soon became a signature look for Ralph himself, who wore a similar jacket and a pair of jeans in the inaugural campaign for the Polo Western label the same year. The look—denim shirt, bolo tie, silver buckle, well-worn cattleman’s hat—was rooted in American history: part Native American practicality (the fringe helps repel water), part Davy Crockett buckskin, but without the caricature. “I think I understand what makes it romantic, what makes it macho, and what makes it sensitive,” Ralph said at the time. “It is a natural look compared to something that’s very fashion—something that’s sensitive and wild at the same time.” This fall, the suede fringe jacket goes back to its Polo Western roots, but with a modern twist: For women, a dropped shoulder and an oversize fit are coupled with a full-grain nappa finish in the lining for a more refined feel. For men, black and tan styles are uncomplicated, with a notch lapel and sweeps of fringe across the yoke, pockets, and sleeves—the perfect answer to creative black tie.
In our first installment of Polo Originals and Friends—a celebration of communities around the world where personal style, cultural heritage, and timeless craftsmanship intersect—we brought together some special friends from Tokyo and invited them to reimagine this season’s collection of hardy tweeds with mountain style.
A few weeks ago, a conversation got started on Instagram after a discerning Polo fan stumbled upon one of our best-kept secrets in the shirt department—the Graduate collar